Don't bother looking for an entrance sign to Nicolas Carles' restaurant: one must take a small side-staircase to the first floor and then, finally, enter this Italian restaurant's large and bright dining room with a view over Forum des Halles. The many assets of Renato Pitzus' cuisine, concentrating on vegetables and seafood, are well worth the climb. A hushed and pleasant place, in total accordance with today's trend of popular restaurants hiding from the public eye in unusual places.